Spongeing may change the reflectivity of a trowel coat, usually making the area appear lighter, so keep that sponge away from a trowel finish. If your wall has a trowel finish, you are better off skipping the sponge, and go straight to re-wetting and very light surface scraping, then a light quick pass with a trowel if needed.In this case you don’t want to re-wet the wall much, as it will show a change in texture. If that fails, if it’s a sponge finish try a slightly damp sponge (wet it, then squeeze all of the water out of it) or rag. from unsealed earth plaster, you can remove it with a good quality pencil eraser. If you just need to clean a smudge or a pencil mark etc.One of the most polished plasters, tadelakt, is still fairly repairable because there’s so much variation across a wall that your repair is like Waldo, or goldbug, camouflaged by the diversity around it. Also the more polished and perfect a plaster is the harder it is to blend in a repair if there is very little variation in your surface, any blemish is going to draw the eye to it.
Lime plasters can be a little harder, but there are definitely tricks for repairing them. There tends to be a trade off between durability and repairability – an unsealed earth plaster is the easiest plaster to damage, and also the easiest to repair without a trace. Most bad things that happen to natural plasters are repairable. When spaghetti sauce meets unsealed earth plaster, it’s a bad scene.
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